China & Central Asia

May 16, 2009
Greetings friends from the heart of Central Asia - the ancient city of Bukhara.
The past two weeks has been a journey along the time worn trails that travelers have passed through for over 2700 years. It is hard to imagine what the days of camel caravans and nomads must have been like, for it is desolate enough in a vehicle/train as we wind along old highways and ribbons of steel.

The northern Chinese city of Turpan was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip so far. The country side so stark and void of life - yet Turpan a cultural and spiritual oasis. I have explored many markets in my travels - yet this one had a level of energy I found nowhere else. People as so friendly - kids running all over - yelling "hello" with big smiles on their faces. Chickens, every known food, clothing, and machines - all of it spread out in a sea of colors and smell unique to Asian Markets everywhere.

Train rides are very much a part of this overland experience and we have spent well over half the nights on the train - the "clickity-clack" is a rather soothing way to sleep. The other half it sometimes seems is spent at border crossings. I will not get into the tragic circumstances that the "STANS" are creating for themselves - but since the fall of the Iron Curtain they are becoming each an inland with a bureaucrat nightmare "protecting" them from each other. It reminds me of many ways of Kenya - there has basically been no infrastructure investment since 1991 - and it is really starting to show. The people put on a brave face - they are each very proud of their history and their "stan" - however once you get to chatting with them it quickly becomes apparent how sad and worried they are about where things are going. It in many ways is the complete reverse of what the EU has created for travelling in Europe - one currency, no or limited boarder controls and a joy to travel around in - to say nothing of the economic benefits. We have not been roughed up by the police - however - I have seen firsthand incidents that certainly make one raise an eyebrow.

Winding along through Almaty, Kazakhstan took me back to the foothills and mountains of Alberta. Then on to the dry farmlands of Uzbekistan - the odd "very ancient" soviet tractor out tilling a field being followed by humans and donkeys. It seems here that most farming practices are all done by hand other than the tilling and even then you still see many donkeys out pulling equipment.

The Aral Sea "Issue" is something I would recommend you Google firsthand. Our local guide in Tashkent very proudly told us that the city traded the Sea for a Subway system.... enough said. If you think NA has potential water issues - this one will blow you away!

The most interesting cultural part has been finally learning firsthand about the religion of Islam. I realized before there would be so much more to it than what our media and governments offer - however standing in a mosque and having the entire prayer, pillars and many fundamental beliefs outlined to you by a sincere Muslim man - really opens up your brain. I can't recommend the experience enough.

The cities of Tashkent (which has the best $3.50 Cnd Opera anywhere on earth), Samarkand and Bukhara - all Uzbek - have offered an abundance of history, great folks and some "interesting" situations at times. Please visit my Picasa site for photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=goldenphotographer&target=ALBUM&id=5330616025262167553&authkey=Gv1sRgCK-LpufzopeTDQ&feat=email