Written June 2, 2009
"Out beyond the fields of wrong doing and the fields of right doing there is another field - I'll meet you there."
11th century Persian Poet
My heart skipped a beat as I glanced up from the Turkmenistan Passport Control window through the chain link fence and read in English "Welcome to the Islamic Republic of Iran". It was a beautiful sunny day at the Iranian Bajgiran border station located high on a mountain pass just south of Ashkhabad, the capital of Turkmenistan. I was about to cross into a country that I have viewed with a certain level of trepidation in for most of my life. I remember 1979: the storming of the US Embassy, flags burning, hostages, a menacing demonic looking man calling himself an Ayatollah shouting hate into the TV screen that was so foreign to anything I had ever seen. Bloodcurdling, unnerving and terrifying images beamed out to the world from seemingly another planet.
Thirty years has now passed since those fateful days of the Revolution in Iran. During that time I have had the good fortune to travel abroad into many different ethnic, cultural and religious experiences that have forever changed my perspective of life in "The West". My journeys usually begin with reading and much research into my next adventure - for although I am an enthusiastic "intrepid" traveler - foolhardy decisions I try to avoid. When I saw this trip schedule I knew that this would be the chance of a lifetime to visit a country that has intrigued me for years.
Meanwhile back at the border - Through the welcome gate we fumbled along clad in our conspicuous tourist version of a hejab - modified scarves passing as veils and "butt covering garb". Within 20 minutes the deafening kerplunk of the stamp plunging onto my passport was complete. I gathered my backpack and started to head towards the exit when a man began speaking in loud Farsi- pointing at me and waving his arms at the baggage x-ray machine. I stopped in my tracks, my heart leaping into my throat. Another man stepped in front of me and demanded "Where are you from?" "Canada," I replied, my eyes wide trying to appear friendly and somewhat meek. "Tourist?" he asked. "Yes." His face then opened up into a broad smile and while placing his right hand on his heart, he bowed slightly as he waved me past the machine and in a loud, very proud voice announced "Welcome to Iran, I hope you enjoy my country."
And so it begins. The following time spent in this bizarre land of contradictions has provided so many accounts of everyday Iranian citizens reaching out to touch, talk and inquire about our small group. Western visitors are still very rare in the former Persian Empire. Between the wars, sanctions, misguided media and certainly misunderstood leadership, Iran has not provided a stellar welcoming committee for Westerners. That trend though appears to be slowly changing. Our group toured through three cities: Mashhad, Esfahan & Tehran - all very different but with a common denominator being the people. A typical encounter whether at a museum, fruit stand, walking down the street or in a cafe unfolds as follows:
1. Eye contact - what an extremely powerful tool when you are running around in a modified bed sheet or "under the hood". The dress restrictions for females are slowly relaxing - many Iranian women when they are not at a holy site have the art of head scarf balancing down to a fine science. To be very frank - it stunk having to wear the Chador - the modified bed sheet (which was required at the Holy Shrine in Mashhad). After that experience the head accessory was not so bad, but there were no tears on the Turkish border when we "retired" our gear.
2. "Hello - where are you from?
3. "How do you like my country?"
And the real zinger...
4. "Do you think we are terrorists?"
The first time I heard number four I almost fell over. The young lady asking was a university student who blurted the question out so earnestly it took me completely by surprise. By the third time I had heard this question asked I started to really feel hollow inside. How did we get here? We all have our own perception and opinion on historical events - I will save the soapbox and only wish that the poetry I quoted at the beginning of this tale perhaps be used in how we shape our future.
This Silk Route journey has been an incredible lesson in history. Not only has the physical distance covered been vast - just over 11,500km; the characters and their legacies encountered along the way are like stepping back to the very time they existed in. The individuals - Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Timur.... The dynasties & empires - Babylon, Chou, Rome, Mongols, and Ottomans -extraordinary each step of the way. It therefore was very appropriate to finish off in the former Persian Empire and to visit many monuments that have managed to be left intact through the ravages of time.
I encourage you to check out my photos online. There are too many stories to share and a picture really does speak a thousand words. The sheer class and elegance of the Persian architecture stands heads and tails above anything else remaining from the ancient world. The only blatant exception to "class" was our visit to Khomeini’s tomb. The three of our group that ventured out past the Tehran city limits on the Metro to see the "shrine" were beyond flabbergasted to see this dreadful mess that has been under construction for almost 20 years - discussions with current and former Iranians lead you to truly wonder what the Revolutions leader's place in history will end up being.
Most chilling experience - no question - was seeing the former US Embassy in Tehran. There is something that takes your breath away when you see a structure still standing like it has been in a time machine. The images from 79 flashback in a moment - the building and grounds appearing exactly the same - right down to where the main fence was finally breached as the angry mobs poured over it and violated the ultimate sanctuary that diplomacy stands to protect at all costs. And high overhead peaking through that very gap in the fence flies the colors of the Islamic Republic of Iran.
Ironic that out of all the places that I ventured to on this exotic journey, I would return to Iran in a moment’s notice - it truly has touched my heart in a way I never imagined possible. I have never encountered citizens of any country that are so accommodating, inquisitive and above all else as kind and generous as the Iranians are.
- to the man who has returned since the Revolution to run a teahouse in Tehran
- to the young couple who questioned me for half an hour in a museum ending up with a crowd of people surrounding us, all of them inquiring "How do you like Iran?
- to the young woman on the train trip to Istanbul who was at 25 excited to be visiting a disco for the first time
- to the ski instructor we met on Tochal Ski Hill that desires so much to come and ski in Canada - to the folks that we spent over three days in transit on train and boat from Tehran with. Many of whom we ended up exchanging emails, hugs and even tears with at the final destination of Istanbul
- and even to the young man on the metro that mentioned to Tracey & I that women should not laugh in public because it not accepted in their culture.....
To each of these folks and to so many others - I truly hope we can find that "other" field between right and wrong someday. Best wishes to you and your family from the fascinating Islamic Republic of Iran.
Check out photos at: www.good2gophotography.com
Monday, June 22, 2009
China & Central Asia
May 16, 2009
Greetings friends from the heart of Central Asia - the ancient city of Bukhara.
The past two weeks has been a journey along the time worn trails that travelers have passed through for over 2700 years. It is hard to imagine what the days of camel caravans and nomads must have been like, for it is desolate enough in a vehicle/train as we wind along old highways and ribbons of steel.
The northern Chinese city of Turpan was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip so far. The country side so stark and void of life - yet Turpan a cultural and spiritual oasis. I have explored many markets in my travels - yet this one had a level of energy I found nowhere else. People as so friendly - kids running all over - yelling "hello" with big smiles on their faces. Chickens, every known food, clothing, and machines - all of it spread out in a sea of colors and smell unique to Asian Markets everywhere.
Train rides are very much a part of this overland experience and we have spent well over half the nights on the train - the "clickity-clack" is a rather soothing way to sleep. The other half it sometimes seems is spent at border crossings. I will not get into the tragic circumstances that the "STANS" are creating for themselves - but since the fall of the Iron Curtain they are becoming each an inland with a bureaucrat nightmare "protecting" them from each other. It reminds me of many ways of Kenya - there has basically been no infrastructure investment since 1991 - and it is really starting to show. The people put on a brave face - they are each very proud of their history and their "stan" - however once you get to chatting with them it quickly becomes apparent how sad and worried they are about where things are going. It in many ways is the complete reverse of what the EU has created for travelling in Europe - one currency, no or limited boarder controls and a joy to travel around in - to say nothing of the economic benefits. We have not been roughed up by the police - however - I have seen firsthand incidents that certainly make one raise an eyebrow.
Winding along through Almaty, Kazakhstan took me back to the foothills and mountains of Alberta. Then on to the dry farmlands of Uzbekistan - the odd "very ancient" soviet tractor out tilling a field being followed by humans and donkeys. It seems here that most farming practices are all done by hand other than the tilling and even then you still see many donkeys out pulling equipment.
The Aral Sea "Issue" is something I would recommend you Google firsthand. Our local guide in Tashkent very proudly told us that the city traded the Sea for a Subway system.... enough said. If you think NA has potential water issues - this one will blow you away!
The most interesting cultural part has been finally learning firsthand about the religion of Islam. I realized before there would be so much more to it than what our media and governments offer - however standing in a mosque and having the entire prayer, pillars and many fundamental beliefs outlined to you by a sincere Muslim man - really opens up your brain. I can't recommend the experience enough.
The cities of Tashkent (which has the best $3.50 Cnd Opera anywhere on earth), Samarkand and Bukhara - all Uzbek - have offered an abundance of history, great folks and some "interesting" situations at times. Please visit my Picasa site for photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=goldenphotographer&target=ALBUM&id=5330616025262167553&authkey=Gv1sRgCK-LpufzopeTDQ&feat=email
Greetings friends from the heart of Central Asia - the ancient city of Bukhara.
The past two weeks has been a journey along the time worn trails that travelers have passed through for over 2700 years. It is hard to imagine what the days of camel caravans and nomads must have been like, for it is desolate enough in a vehicle/train as we wind along old highways and ribbons of steel.
The northern Chinese city of Turpan was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip so far. The country side so stark and void of life - yet Turpan a cultural and spiritual oasis. I have explored many markets in my travels - yet this one had a level of energy I found nowhere else. People as so friendly - kids running all over - yelling "hello" with big smiles on their faces. Chickens, every known food, clothing, and machines - all of it spread out in a sea of colors and smell unique to Asian Markets everywhere.
Train rides are very much a part of this overland experience and we have spent well over half the nights on the train - the "clickity-clack" is a rather soothing way to sleep. The other half it sometimes seems is spent at border crossings. I will not get into the tragic circumstances that the "STANS" are creating for themselves - but since the fall of the Iron Curtain they are becoming each an inland with a bureaucrat nightmare "protecting" them from each other. It reminds me of many ways of Kenya - there has basically been no infrastructure investment since 1991 - and it is really starting to show. The people put on a brave face - they are each very proud of their history and their "stan" - however once you get to chatting with them it quickly becomes apparent how sad and worried they are about where things are going. It in many ways is the complete reverse of what the EU has created for travelling in Europe - one currency, no or limited boarder controls and a joy to travel around in - to say nothing of the economic benefits. We have not been roughed up by the police - however - I have seen firsthand incidents that certainly make one raise an eyebrow.
Winding along through Almaty, Kazakhstan took me back to the foothills and mountains of Alberta. Then on to the dry farmlands of Uzbekistan - the odd "very ancient" soviet tractor out tilling a field being followed by humans and donkeys. It seems here that most farming practices are all done by hand other than the tilling and even then you still see many donkeys out pulling equipment.
The Aral Sea "Issue" is something I would recommend you Google firsthand. Our local guide in Tashkent very proudly told us that the city traded the Sea for a Subway system.... enough said. If you think NA has potential water issues - this one will blow you away!
The most interesting cultural part has been finally learning firsthand about the religion of Islam. I realized before there would be so much more to it than what our media and governments offer - however standing in a mosque and having the entire prayer, pillars and many fundamental beliefs outlined to you by a sincere Muslim man - really opens up your brain. I can't recommend the experience enough.
The cities of Tashkent (which has the best $3.50 Cnd Opera anywhere on earth), Samarkand and Bukhara - all Uzbek - have offered an abundance of history, great folks and some "interesting" situations at times. Please visit my Picasa site for photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=goldenphotographer&target=ALBUM&id=5330616025262167553&authkey=Gv1sRgCK-LpufzopeTDQ&feat=email
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