.....ahhhhhh - the little dog just can't seem to to sit still these days. And where ever he goes, sun & blue sky seem to follow him.
Recent memories of the howling wind found around Torres del Paine, provided him with some sense of trepidation as he prepared for arrival in El Calafate, Argentina. The notorious weather in this area leads to many trekking and climbing trips spent in tents staring out at the bases of glaciers and granite mountains, holding on for dear life to any solid tree or rock when venturing out for potty breaks.
So imagine our delight when the first day spent in the area was somewhat overcast, with winds only gusting upwards of 80km per hour when we arrived into town. We elected to do a very 'tourist' thing and ride on a big ass tourist bus to the Perito Moreno Glacier - complete with the boat ride to within 50 or so meters of the base. It is claimed that this is one of only three glaciers in South America that is actually not retreating. The best part about this piece of ice is that it is EXTREMELY active with large and small chunks crashing into the lake on a very regular basis. Luck is mostly involved with capturing these crashes on film..... and we got some good ones!
The main reason for this stop in Patagonia though was a visit to hopefully 'see' two of the worlds most beautiful works of granite. During the prep work, I visited various websites that were full of woeful tales of folks who spent weeks in the area and never once saw the tops of these two wonders. I am referring to Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy, also located in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These two mountains constitute what many climbers feel is some of the most challenging granite to scale anywhere on the planet. Add to their sheer faces the rotten weather that usually found in the area and very few humans ever get a chance to lay claim to their top. Photographers clamour to the area with hopes of a glimpse through the lens - vying for the perfect moment to grab a shot.
HOWEVER, Beanie must have bribed a park official because the day we arrived the weather (that had been cloudy) broke in the evening and we spent three nights camping around the park, staring up at a completely crystal clear sky. Star gazing abound, flourishing alpenglow, not a breath of wind.... it was just plain silly. Everyone we ran into shook their heads in disbelief at our shared good fortune.
I will not rant about how spectacular these two mountains are. The photos speak a million words and the whole experience in this park rates up in the top three of anywhere I have been on this planet. Simply brilliant.
A somewhat overwhelmed Beanie returned to Calafate with 'Leaving on a Jet Plane' drifting in the air. A quick side - Calafate has no redeeming qualities (other than some nice folks & new airport). Envision a purgatory.... a large Wal-Mart surrounded by howling winds, sand storms and ENDLESS cheap 'made in China' brik-a-brac, complete with 1,527,893 stray, mangy dogs that bark and bark and bark ALL night long. Ok, I do not think I will be getting a job at their chamber of commerce anytime soon - but it really is a scar, in an otherwise amazing area.
Aero Argentina provided the taxi to Bariloche and suddenly lakes and volcanoes replaced glaciers. We have cycled, trekked and rented a car to go do a circuit through the Lakes District into Chile. Highlight number ?? was two mornings ago when we had a 0400 hr start to climb up the very active volcano Villarrica. News stories from its neighbour Llaima where abound in January with its eruptions. No eruptions for us this day. Just that bizarre blue sky thing again.
Beanie can now report that he has officially climbed to the summit of volcanoes on four different continents. Not too bad for a little stuffed dog from Safeway!
Enough of our tales.... we have one more trek in some different mountains and then are homeward bound. I thank you for taking time to read about Beanies latest journey. I am awestruck at what we have seen and experianced on this trip - only enhanced by our good fortune to have been in Patagonia during one of the dryest and sunniest summers on record.
As always, best wishes to you and your family where ever you find yourself on this globe.
Safe journeys,
Cheryl, Wayne and the hippest perros in Patagonia, Beanie
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